tihama
"And the Tihama... is like Africa", Kamal said pointing at a map of Yemen in his office, while we were putting together the road trip.
The contrast is stunning indeed, coming down from Yemen's inhabited mountains to the dusty plains of the Tihama. Suddenly the windshield frames a flat horizon, half sand half haze, darker skins in colorful dresses, huts made of palm leaves and palm trunks, motorcycles replacing donkeys, and the first camel of our trip.
Fish for lunch in Al Hudayda, Yemen's biggest port city on the Red Sea. Plus a visit to the fishing port and fish market, apart from crows and flies fairly deserted in the midday heat.
Soon we head south, for a bumpy drive along the Red Sea coast, literally - one wheel in, one wheel out. Pumped up with qat and his favorite tape of Arabic music, our driver Omar tries to keep up with playboy Kamal. Fortunately the local pelicans don't seem to mind that much.
Kamal has selected a "special place" for our New Year's party, on a tidal plain hours of bouncing south of Hudayda. Under a bunch of palm trees we pitch the tents with the last sunset of the year. For the first time in centuries, the new years of both Arabic (lunar) and western (solar) calendars coincide.
Even though Kamal tried really hard, we're not alone. On an evening stroll away from Yemeni Dreams base camp, we come across a salt mine and a couple of small and primitive settlements, made entirely out of palms, nested in the dunes. Considering how long it takes for the kids to approach us foreigners, we start doubting if they have seen any before. And if they celebrate any New Year at all, lunar or solar.
Back at the camp, other Yemeni Dreams drivers have - surprizingly - found their way to this middle of nowhere, just in time for the party. We end the year - and just our second day in Yemen - with a low-tech but very enjoyable party on the Red Sea coast. Thanks to Kamal's extensive array of games and dances, and to the international company.
The contrast is stunning indeed, coming down from Yemen's inhabited mountains to the dusty plains of the Tihama. Suddenly the windshield frames a flat horizon, half sand half haze, darker skins in colorful dresses, huts made of palm leaves and palm trunks, motorcycles replacing donkeys, and the first camel of our trip.
Fish for lunch in Al Hudayda, Yemen's biggest port city on the Red Sea. Plus a visit to the fishing port and fish market, apart from crows and flies fairly deserted in the midday heat.
Soon we head south, for a bumpy drive along the Red Sea coast, literally - one wheel in, one wheel out. Pumped up with qat and his favorite tape of Arabic music, our driver Omar tries to keep up with playboy Kamal. Fortunately the local pelicans don't seem to mind that much.
Kamal has selected a "special place" for our New Year's party, on a tidal plain hours of bouncing south of Hudayda. Under a bunch of palm trees we pitch the tents with the last sunset of the year. For the first time in centuries, the new years of both Arabic (lunar) and western (solar) calendars coincide.
Even though Kamal tried really hard, we're not alone. On an evening stroll away from Yemeni Dreams base camp, we come across a salt mine and a couple of small and primitive settlements, made entirely out of palms, nested in the dunes. Considering how long it takes for the kids to approach us foreigners, we start doubting if they have seen any before. And if they celebrate any New Year at all, lunar or solar.
Back at the camp, other Yemeni Dreams drivers have - surprizingly - found their way to this middle of nowhere, just in time for the party. We end the year - and just our second day in Yemen - with a low-tech but very enjoyable party on the Red Sea coast. Thanks to Kamal's extensive array of games and dances, and to the international company.
posted by Jan at 5:13 PM
1 Comments:
very nice memories
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